This is predominantly on OM-1 Guide but it is still worth giving it’s predecessor a mention, the Olympus E-M1 MK3 which is a fine camera. The purpose of this section is to highlight the differences and to show the MK3 is still very much a worthy and capable camera. This guide and many of the sections are still very relevant if you own the 1-MK3.

The OM-1 is the evolution of the E-M1 MK3. It can be considered as a hybrid, with the AF and power performance of the E-M1 X and the form factor and features of the E-M1 MK3 consolidated together, given a hefty boost of even more power and an upgrade of features. No new features were added to the OM-1 which makes the 1-MK3 still a very good and more than capable camera.

Computational Modes such as Live ND, High Res, HDR and Focus Stacking are applicable to both cameras, as are Live Time and Live Composite. The OM-1 performs some of these better because of the new process, High Res processing is faster and Live ND is expanded to 6 stops rather than 5. The body had significant upgrades with a better EVF, increased weather sealing, better performing batteries and the ability to charge in camera, and High Res dedicated to a button along with a new AF-ON button. Menus are now different with items being rationalised and rearranged into a more user friendly layout.

Although there are differences many of the sections in this guide will still apply with the only real difference being the location of items in the menus. The only section which will be irrelevant is the A.I Detect Mode which the E-M1 MK3 lacks.

COMPARISON

A summary of some of the main differences.

CUSTOM MODES / BUTTONS 

ISO, AEL-AFL

These are all default and there is no need to change them, leave at default. If you are new to the 1 MK3 it may be that you have obtained a used model. Personally I would do a full reset and remove any settings so you can start from fresh.

AE BKT (BRACKETING) AND HDR

As already mentioned HDR has further bracketing options available which are not included in the BKT menu for some strange reason, hence why I save this as a button. Press/Hold and turning the front wheel allows access the options. Auto Exposure Lock is disabled which I rarely use. If I need to lock exposure for a number of frames for panoramics for example I use Manual.

See the Section ‘Technique-Exposure Bracketing‘ for a detailed explanation. You may feel Bracketing is not important to you or you are happy to do it manually by taking additional shots over and under-exposed, in which case you can select other items for these buttons. Personally I would retain at least one, AE-BKT would be my choice, map it to the top left button and choose another function for the AE-L button or leave as default. Options may be Live ND or AI Tracking.

LEVER 1 & 2

As already mentioned above the 1 MK3 ships with BBF already set to the Lever Position 2 and it is worth retaining at least as a default. Position 1 is best with a standard small target AF point and S-AF which can then be further customised for Custom Menus. Save one CM with the lever at the default as a landscape Mode where the ability to switch quickly between AF and MF is very useful, and in other CM’s it really is personal choice.

By setting two different options on the lever you have great flexibility. You could set L2 position with C-AF + Tracking if you wish, or set a different AF Target pattern (the focus grid size). This is where experience matters but don’t worry too much, you can always change it as your experience grows.

REAR DIRECTION PAD

When setting options to the 4 way Direction Pad on the rear of the camera first select ‘Direct Function’ to access other options. Do note that as default the D Pad sets focus point position by pressing any direction button. When setting the D Pad to ‘Direct Function’ you do not lose the ability to move the focus point (the joy stick is just above and serves this purpose too). Press the left Direction and focus point position is activated again, returning each button back to the original function temporarily. In other words the D Pad can be set to multi-purposes other than the default.

DRIVE MODE

Drive mode can be quickly accessed from the buttons on the top left of the camera or the SCP, but I find the more I can control the camera just with my right hand the better. And it is better to have more than one way to access the mode.

WHITE BALANCE

Shooting in RAW means you have direct access to WB and you can change it during post, and most photographers do not bother to change WB at all just leaving it in Auto. This is perfectly acceptable and I have Auto-WB set, but there are times when auto gets it completely wrong. Sunset and sunrise, and at twilight the temperature of light can change beyond what Auto will get right. Blue Hour does have hints of blue tones but it is not electric blue, so being able to correct it quickly is useful. There are other ways to set WB, with the rear screen and the SCP, or by changing the functions of the lever, however setting it to the D Pad is fast and easy to access.

MULTI-FUNCTION (PEAKING)

Setting Peaking is possible in two ways, by setting Peaking directly, or setting the Multi-Function option. Set Multi-function as the button, and then press/hold the button, turn the front dial and set it to Peaking. The advantage of using the Multi-Function button is you now also have access to other options. Check them out and see if you find any of the options useful.

We previously enabled Peaking and Magnify in the main menu (AF.6 Focus Assist), and as I said both can be useful and also annoying. Having Peaking set to a button can get around this. As the AF mode is set to AF+MF, turn the focus ring and the view will magnify and show peaking at the same time allowing you to focus accurately, but you cannot see the whole scene. Now press the Peaking button to enable peaking and manually focus with the focus ring, and the view will not magnify.

Enabling Peaking with the button effectively disables Magnify until you press it again. When using AF, pressing Peaking can also be used to show what parts of a scene will be in focus similar to Depth Of Field Preview. Keep in mind that as peaking shows high contrast edges it is not entirely accurate for DOF, but it is a good guide.

LENS Fn

I set x2 Digital Zoom to the Lens L-fn button. Although it will crop the image it can be useful when in a situation that I do not have the focal length. Note that the Raw image will still be the full image with frame showing where the zoom was. Non-Pro lenses (and more being introduced) do not have the L-fn button so it’s important not to setting anything here you need constantly. For wildlife and long lenses you may prefer to set another function to the L-fn button such as Focus Limiter.

CUSTOM MODES

Whilst I’m not going to cover all the possible options for the E -M1 MK3 here please take a look at the Custom Modes section for the OM-1. You’ll find many of the suggestions applicable and it should give you plenty of ideas of what is possible and what you can do. Bear in mind there are slight differences with buttons, in some ways the 1 MK3 is more flexible, and also remember frames per second are different depending on what you want to set up.